Japanese Foodways, Past and Present

Eric C. Rath is an associate professor of history at the University of Kansas and the author of The Ethos of Noh: Actors and Their Act. Stephanie Assmann is a lecturer at Tohoku University, Sendai, Japan, and the author of Value Change and Social Stratification in Japan: Aspects of Women's Consumer Behaviour.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS   vii
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS   ix
INTRODUCTION   1
Eric C. Rath and Stephanie Assmann

PART 1   Early Modern Japan
1 Honzen Dining: The Poetry of Formal Meals in Late Medieval and Early Modern Japan   19
ERIC C. RATH
2 "How to Eat the Ten Thousand Things": Table Manners in the Edo Period   42
MICHAEL KINSKI
3. "Stones for the Belly": Kaiseki Cuisine for Tea during the Early Edo Period   68
GARY SOKA CADWALLADER AND JOSEPH R. JUSTICE
4 Meat-eating in the Kojimachi District of Edo   92
AKIRA SHIMIZU
5 Wine-drinking Culture in Seventeeth-century Japan: The Role of Dutch Merchants   108
JOJI NOZAWA

PART II   Modern Japan
6  The History of Domestic Cookbooks in Modern Japan   129
SHOKO HIGASHIYOTSU YANAGI
7 Imperial Cuisines in Taisho Foodways   145
BARAK KUSHNER
8 Beyond HUnger: Grocery Shopping, Cooking, and Eating in 1940s Japan   166
KATARZYNA CWIERTKA AND MIHO YASUHARA
9 Ramen and U.S. Occupation Policy   186
GEORGE SOLT
10 Bento: Boxed Love, Eaten by the Eye   201
TOMOKO ONABE

PART III Contemporary Japan
11 Mountain Vegetables and the Politics of Local Flavor in Japan   221
BRIDGET LOVE
12 Reinventing Culinary Heritage in Northern Japan: Slow Food and Traditional Vegetables   243
STEPHANIE ASSMANN
13 Ramen Connoisseurs: Class, Gender, and the Internet   257
SATOMI FUKUTOMI
14 Irretrievably in Love with Japanese Cuisine   275
DAVID E. WELLS

CONTRIBUTORS   285
INDEX   289

List of Illustrations

1 A three-tray honezen meal from Ryori kondateshu   22
2 Snipe in (eggplant) jars from Shichi no zen jukyu kon no maki   32
3 A supervisory housewife and a servant from Shiroto ryori nenju sozai no shikata zen   135
4 An old housewife and two servants from Sozai ryori no okeiko   137
5 A young housewife in a kitchen from Katei yoshoku ryoriho   139
6 A housewife and maid discussing kitchen tasks from Renovating Kitchens   151
7 Members of a neighborhood farm group preparing steamed buns   222
8 Local female farmers work part-time at company headquarters   230
9 A female farmers' group from Yuda's Makino district   232
10 The three basic types of Japanese knives   276
11 Cutting a carrot into a plum blossom   277
12 Peeling daikon   278
13 Tempura   283